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Clearing Baths

ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER
ALL AT ABOUT 70- 80 DEGREES
AGITATE OR YELLOW STAINS MAY APPEAR!

Different papers will respond differently to different types.

Throw out the baths as they turn yellow. Last bath should always be clear!

Here are some I've tried and found to work well

1- Kodak hypo clear (we have tested no other brands but they might work). Mix as per instructions for prints. Do 2 baths 8 mins each. It contains sodium sulfite as well as citric acid and edta. You can make a much cheaper version of this by adding 3-6 tablespoons Sodium sulfite and 3-6 tablespoons edta to 1 gallon of water.

2- hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) 28% solution dilute 25-60 mls. to 1 gal water. Works very good, but is very toxic be careful!
I've been using muriatic acid(hydrochloric acid) 31.45 % (use about 25-60 mls per gallon water), from hardware store and it seems to be working fine. Much cheaper than stuff you get at the pharmacist use 3 baths 5 mins. per bath. Do not recommend very toxic!
It will etch highlights after an hour or two.

3- citric acid for first 2 baths (diluted 4 to 6 tablespoons to 1 gallon tap water. Then use a 3rd bath sodium sulfite( 4 teaspoons to 1 gal water) very effective.

4. Solution for "pink" staining on rising paper: 2 baths of hydrochloric acid 25 to 60 mls to 1 gallon water then 3rd 5 min bath of 4 tablespoons of sodium sulfite and edta for 5 mins. All papers will react differently to each clearing bath so experiment to find the one that works best and is least toxic


Table of Contents
enlarged negatives
retouching negatives
papers
traditional pl/pt formula
contrast control
tween 20 - photo flow
  
testing coating area and ferric oxalate
coating the paper
drying prior to printing
exposure information
bronzing
development
  
clearing baths
gold tone
washing
final drying
retouching prints
suppliers

 

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