October 28,2004 Valentine, Nebraska

29 October 2004
Valentine, Nebraska

Still here! Spent yesterday roaming the plains of Rosebud (reservation). Such a beautiful place, with distinct landscapes. Small river valleys and pine trees break up the rolling Plains. Spent a few hours with Elva Thompson and Harold White Horse. Have known Elva for years from my days at Crow Dogs Sundance. Harold and Elva run the White Horse Trading Post in downtown Mission, South Dakota. If you’re ever out this way it’ s a great little store with lots of locally made Lakota art along with a good selection of beads, music and herbs. A must stop on the Rosebud. Ended up at their home outside White River, South Dakota and spent a great afternoon. Harold has offered to take me around tomorrow and show me some of his special places, weather permitting. Tonight it’s cold and looks like rain.
Spent today traveling south down HWY 97 looking for more waterfalls on the North Loup. Ended up in the town of Mullen, Nebraska. In Valentine we were told to look up
Mitch Glidden at the Sandhill Motel in Mullen. Turns out he runs Glidden Canoe Tours. For sure he’d know but he was out of town so I got directed over to Big Red’s Café and Bar. Had a great hamburger and lots of help from the 10 or so folks hanging around the bar. This was a local bar full of locals. Back in the 60’s I would have been in serious trouble in this place. Even today I felt a bit uneasy and excused myself to go to the bathroom.  Turns out the waterfalls we were looken for were the Carrier Falls and everyone had been there fishing most of their lives until the property fell into the hands of The Turner Ranch. As in… Ted Turner. Seems the land is now off limits and they do not allow anyone on the property. I’ve got calls into the Turner Headquarters to see if we can get permission the make photographs, but everyone seems to feel it’s useless.
Due to weather and prior commitments I’ll have to leave the area Sunday heading west again to hook up with the film crew in Rapid City or Denver. Unsure as to where yet. Do plan to return in the spring and do more work here. The land and the people here have a strong pull on my heart.


The Times they are a changing


Painting Wounded Knee S.D.


Alva and DMK at the White Horse Trading Post Mission S.D.


DMK shooting the Little White River


DMK Shooting HWY 97 Nebraska


North Loup River

October 26, 2004 Valentine, Nebraska

October 26, 2004
Valentine Nebraska

Quite a day. Out of Valentine down Hwy 97 toward the Snake, North Loup and Dismal River. Arrived at the Snake River and a great water fall. While setting up the camera the screw from the tripod to the camera broke. Now this tripod had a $350.00 “magic ball” head made by Novoflex on it and one would think a few things. 1. the screw would not break being made of strong metal. Wrong, the inside metal of the screw is soft and it broke with very little pressure applied. 2. You could get a replacement screw. Wrong again, after calls to our suppliers no one had any idea about replacement parts. So it looked like a new head and a few headaches trying to get it shipped to the middle of nowhere. And of course it all had to be over-nighted as I could not shoot until we had the tripod up and running. One ray of hope- on the horizon we saw a Fed-x truck coming down the highway. So here we are in the middle of nowhere; the truck, airstream, Henry and me by the side of the road, with no one around for miles totally clear weather about 1pm in the afternoon, flagging down the Fed-x truck to find out were to get the head shipped. But the Fed-x truck just whizzed by. Perhaps he just didn’t see us? I’ve noticed that Fed-x service and customer care has been declining lately. ……

I headed back to Valentine in the hopes of finding a hardware store or a Fed-x office. Not that I had much hope of finding either. I pulled into the Bomgaars Hardware store in downtown Valentine. I had taken the head apart and found numerous custom parts that no hardware store, not even in New York City would stock. As I walked into the store with all these parts and the camera Carl Fernau came up and asked me if he could help. After studying the problem trying numerous ideas and an hour in the back room where I was allowed to use their tools we were able to fix the head with a 39-cent screw and a drill. Drilling out a $350.00 anything is a bit scary but when we’d finished we had not only fixed it but improved on the design of the head. If the screw ever breaks again it can be repaired with a screwdriver and a stop at any hardware store that carries a ¼ by 1-inch flat head screw.


DMK on the cell trying to find parts


Fixed tripod DMK and Carl Fernau


DMK shooting Snake Falls


Henry at Snake Falls


Trees HWY 97 Nebraska


Elk Niobrara Wildlife Refuge Nebraska


Sunset HWY 97


Trailer Merritt Reservoir Nebraska

October 25, 2004 Valentine, Nedbraska

October 25, 2004
Valentine, Nebraska

Time just flew by in Omaha. Left Omaha yesterday up highway 75 – great two-lane road heading north. Cut west just below the South Dakota border on highway 12 and have been running west since then. Now traveling through the Niobrara River Valley. Amazing rivers here, The Niobrara, The Snake and the North Loup. Hope to spend a few days in the area working with the rivers. Amazing to see the waterfalls and rivers among the rolling Plains. We are just south of the Rosebud (reservation). I’ve spent a good bit of time there but have never been in North Western Nebraska and it is fantastic country.


First coating in trailer


First prints hanging to dry in trailer

October 19, 2004 Omaha, Nebraska Update on SISTER REDDIE

October 19,2004 Omaha, Nebraska

Been in Omaha working since, well a long time ago, hitting the road again this weekend and will post what’s happened since August in the next few days but I wanted to share this with you all. It was writen by Marjorie Wooley, Sister Reddie Harper’s daughter for her 90’th birthday.Remember I photographed and wrote about Sister Reddie back in early July.

When Marjorie sent this to me she said: I am attaching a little piece that I wrote for her birthday. Since you met her, you can relate to what I say. Most people don’t believe things that I could tell them about her.and it’s so very true!!!
People never ask me how it was to be raised by Mother, they just say something like, “Boy it must have been something to be raised by your mother!” Well, “Something” is not the word.I decided to find the word and it took about a millisecond. The word is “ABUNDANCE.”We had everything in abundance. (Except money.) We didn’t have any money, but we had an abundance of food, and abundance of people, and an abundance of activities.I actually thought bologna sandwiches and potato chips were foods that only the well-to-do ate, because we never had them. We never had much of anything that came out a store. We only had biscuits, cornbread, chicken, pork chops, steak and gravy, rice, peas, corn, butter beans, banana pudding, lemon icebox pie, and strawberries and with real whipped cream. Sometimes all in the same meal!Mother never just killed a chicken for Sunday dinner. When she killed chickens, we had the whole yard full of flopping chickens with their necks broken. She usually had a lot of help, but if she didn’t, she just scaled, plucked and clean them quicker than any chicken cleaning machine.I don’t mean to say that Daddy didn’t contribute to the abundance, but mother made it happen. He didn’t exactly move as fast as she did.I don’t actually remember sitting down to a family meal with just the six of us. We always had so many people there that we often ate in shifts. The really nice thing was that the children got to eat first. Mother had a lot of disdain for adults that ate before the children.We had an abundance of people there all the time. I don’t remember having a particular bed to sleep when I was young. I generally slept wherever there was room. Often on the cedar chest, or on the floor on a pallet of very thick heavy quits. (She had an abundance of heavy quilts too.) We had so many people there, that she converted two chicken houses into bunkhouses. I don’t remember having to sleep in the chicken house, but I do remember that James quite often had to sleep out there with the boys, when the house was too full.People actually took their vacations at our house. Strangers were always welcome. I don’t know the times I came in from school to a room full of people that I had never seen. The people who came to visit, would always return with new people. We had an abundance of activity. The people who came for vacations were not exactly setting on the front porch in the swing. They cooked, sewed, and shelled peas. They also sang, prayed and went swimming in the creek. And the kids got to dig for buried treasure.I don’t know how many people have visited and eaten there, but it is not a childhood exaggeration to say there have been hundreds.She managed this on almost no cash. I don’t every remember going into a grocery store, pushing a cart, and picking things up from the shelf. Daddy brought home a few things like flour, sugar coffee, and maybe pork and beans from Ms. Terronova store in Lake Charles, on Saturdays. Another thing that comes to mind when I think about my childhood is how safe I felt. I always say that I lived on Miracle Mile. I had Mother on one end and Aunt Corene Tyler on the other end, so I didn’t have to worry about anything. I was sure they weren’t afraid of anything or anybody. They were on first name basis with God, and the Devil certainly wasn’t going to tangle with either of them.All of the people who came left many memories. I am using these notes not to remember what to say, but to keep me from trying to mention all of the stories that come to mind.LaJuan and Rodney, I remember your mother’s hot chocolate, and Aunt Corene’s teacakes,Linda, Judy and Joyce, I remember your mother singing in her yard, and Ms. Hanchey’s mayhaw jelly cakes. I know you got to call her Big Mama, but I always called her Mrs. Hanchey.Melba, Your grandmother introduced me to the best steak and gravy I every tasted. She would say to me “Sha, go out there and pick me a handfull of those peppers.” and she would chop the whole handfull and put them in the gravy. She also made the most delicious ice cream from canned milk. I remember the Labby family coming up with your family and barbequing on the creek. It was through your grandparents that I fell in love with Cajun food long before it became popular.Jean Evelyn, when you came, Mother always wanted everything to be special. She made sure I got out the best napkins and silverware. And..she also wanted me to make sure that I did not leave any lemon seeds in the lemon icebox pie.My one regret today it that Daddy, Johnny, Thomas and Reba can’t be here with us. I will end with a few lines from this little poem.Just Because you are my Mother.Just because you are my Mother,I know how it feels to have my skin scrubbed clean, My hair French braided …tight, andTo sleep warm on the coldest winter night.Mother, I know that my childhood was so incredible and unique that most children could not have dreamed of all the things I thought were totally normal, JUST BECAUSE YOU ARE MY MOHTER!

Written for Reiddie Harper on her 90th birthday. August 22, 2003, by Marjorie Wooley

September 9, 2004 Omaha, Nebraska

9 September 2004
Omaha, Nebraska

Awhile has passed…… After Lubec Maine I drove through inland Maine and wondered through Vermont. Great state, Vermont. Visited in the town of Cabot, where my first ex-wife lived with the Weatherman in the ’60. The town really has not changed at all. Then headed down to my folks in Ct. and off to Omaha to get some gallery work done. Have been in Omaha over a month- locked away in the darkroom but now see the light and hope to head North and West in the coming week. Plan is off to South Dakota, Rosebud, Pine Ridge, Eagle Butte and the Black Hills then down to Colorado to see Jesse and into New Mexico. Will hook up with a film crew from Paris that is going to do a small documentary on the trip somewhere between Rapid City and Denver. Then Nevada, California, Oregon and Washington. Who knows? Sounds like a plan. Been rough being off the road for so long. Good folks and great food here but its time to mosey on down the road. Had the opportunity to make contacts and scan all the work done thus far, so the gallery section has many new images. Also found images that I’d previously missed so if you go back through the pages you’ll find some new work as well. I  had time to set up the trailer so I can contact print 4×5 palladium- so be on the lookout for the traveling portfolio. If you’d be interested in seeing the portfolio of original palladium prints made on the trip, edition will be “APOTR” for Artist Proof printed on the road, let me know.


Dan “Your gonna be here how long?”

 


Dan, Joyce and Henri


Dan and Henri


Dan learning palladium printing

August 13, 2004 South Bay Campground Lubec, Maine

Awoke to another blistery Maine day. Cool (cold) ocean breeze singing in the trees. Been listening to Canadian Public Radio the last few days. Quite good. Right now Swahili music is a welcome addition to the morning. Today is the first day I’ve just relaxed at the campsite. Time to regroup, clean up and plan the next move. First day I’ve slept past 5 am in awhile. Nice to sleep in to nine. On the 9th I motored up the coast to Lubec and have spent the last 4 days exploring the area. Much to see here. Inland there are Artic Bogs, great old growth trees, as much water as land and blueberry fields strewn with boulders. Interesting to see migrant workers picken blueberries. The coast line is rough with massive cliffs and more old growth trees. Each day the fog blankets the land and sea scapes until well after noon and it adds a magical quality to the place. The tide rises over 20 feet and the coast line changes as you watch. Two days ago I crossed over a thin strip of land to shoot two boulders and 20 minutes later when I turned around to cross back the thin strip had disappeared under 5 inches of water. Lesson learned. In a strange way Maine reminds me of New Mexico around each turn in the road is a different landscape and it is constantly changing from deep old growth forests to open ocean vistas. Yesterday we roamed down a dirt road and found Scottish Highland Cows (see photo below) in amongst the boulders and bogs on a hillside just feet away from the ocean. It feels like the end of america and it is. Very rural and quite poor with very little commerce. Blueberries and Lobsters are about it. No big stores and not even very many Mom and Pop places left open.

The campground reflects the area. Very simple with what you need but no fancy dancey stuff. Just the basics, no frills. Feels right. Some of the rv parks make you feel your not really where you are. You can go from your big motor homes with tv and huge satellite dishes to the air-conditioned bathrooms/showers and then to the heated pool and hot tub. Local culture, hell we can see that on our tv. Strange to be in Maine and walk by an rv to hear a program on Maine on the discovery channel. Now they go home and say yep we were just in Maine…….At South Bay you feel you’re in Maine. It’s about 80 acres with lots of ocean front and very few people. Good for me, bad for Jack Willson, the owner. Jacks’ busy rebuilding a lobster boat for his son and doesn’t seem to dwell much on the fact that this has been the slowest summer he’s had. See his photo soon in the gallery.


Jack worken on his boat

August 9, 2004 Ellsworth Maine

Patton Pond RV Resort

Woke up 5am to Henry crying by the bed. Henry never cries so something was up. Out the door we went, me in my bathrobe, Henry in a very big hurry. He took off among the RV’s before I could get the leash on him and “visited” about five camp sites before I caught up with him to gain some control. Had the worst case of diarrhea I’ve ever seen. But the morning had begun and the sunrise over the lake was superb so I grabbed the camera and off I went. The fog was just lifting from the lake and the light was great all I needed was some subject matter. Let’s see there is the beach, some white wooden chairs on it next to the dock with a boat at the end of it and a guy sitting having early morning coffee, looken good, hum, the swimmer’s float looks good out in the water. It’s beginning to come together. And here come the boys, two of them about 15 years old up at 5 am for a swim. Who says the Youth of america is soft. They jump in the water and I’ve almost got an image- before morning coffee, Maine has been good to me. As they swim around, the world begins to look perfect, until their waves begin to rock the dock my tripod is resting on. Damn for an instant I thought I’d found it! They quite down and the dock stops rocking. Now only if they will, and they are, swimming out towards the swimmer’s float! Nope they hold on to it for a bit but never leave the water and swim back to shore. The light is going but it’s too good an image so I find the courage and shout out. “Hey guys wanta swim out to the float and stand on it so I can make a photograph”? The response is “Sure, that would be cool!” and off they go. I’m stunned, but as they climb up onto the float the photograph comes together. A bit more mist comes in, and the sun peeks over the mountain. I’ve been give another gift. For a brief while the world is perfect. As I walk back to camp I begin to wonder, did I expose the film correctly?

August 8, 2004 PHOTO PAGE

Images from the last few days on Mt. Desert Island and in Acadia National Park. Page may take a few moments to load – coffee refill time!

 


Dmk at Thunderhole


DMK shooting Bass Harbor Lighthouse


Salisbury Cove


little friend

 

August 8, 2004 PHOTO PAGE #2

perhaps another cup of coffee…….


Getting closer


A Sailboat in the water


A`sailboat in the fog


A crab on land


A lobster in a bag


A part of a crab on land


A hand holding blueberries


A dog without an ear


A tree in the fog


A tree at Jordan Pond


dmk shooting rocks

August 8, 2004 Ellsworth Maine

Patton Pond RV Resort

Photographed William Coombs today in Prospect Harbor, Maine while he was waiting for the tide to come in and his boat to rise. That’s his boat, The Narda Jean, behind him in the photograph below. William is a lobster fisherman and has been most of his life. He spent about 10 years up in the woods working but other than that his life has been here, on the sea, catching lobster. I spent about an hour talking and photographing. The great thing about this trip is meeting and talking with folks like Bill. It still amazes me how willing folks are to stop what they are doing and be photographed, without even asking why. No one has ever said no or even asked why I want to they just seem to feel it’s a good thing to do and for that I’m so grateful. As I set up and begin to make the image I do tell them a bit about myself and the trip and that I will send them a print but they give themselves freely before that.

Lobster Fishing facts:

1. You work 2 years as an apprentice to a local fisherman, in the area you plan to fish, learning the area, tides, bottom and getting to know the local folks. Then you can get a license.
2. The federal license is good from the Canadian boarder down through Massachusetts and allows you to fish anywhere.
3. Local tradition has much more to do with where you can fish than does the federal license. And if the locals don’t like you, you don’t fish there. A knife stuck in a buoy is your first warning that you’ve encroached on someone’s territory.
4. Female lobsters with eggs are marked with a “V” in their tail and released. You have to release them but don’t have to mark them. Once marked they can never be kept by a fisherman when caught, so it insures a good supply of females who remain breading stock, if the fishermen mark them. The more that are marked the greater the chance that the lobster population will stay healthy. This limits the immediate supply as you may catch the same female again minus her eggs that same season but looking long term you want to mark many.
5. The last few years a good day was 400 to 500 lbs. a day. This year it’s been about 50 lbs per day.
6. Lobsters, like crawfish do bury up in the mud and lay dormant.
7. Lobsters do molt up to 20 times before they reach 1 ¼ lbs. There old hard shells molt away and underneath is a new very soft shell that takes awhile to get hard again.
8. New Shells have less meat but taste sweater. When you break open a new shell claw you are surprised to find it only about half full of meat, but you can break it apart with your hands and eating one is very easy work.
9. This being america, it seems the hard (old shells) are in more demand. Quantity over quality apparently!


William Cooms


DMK and William Coombs


In Honor of John Rudiak